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Repairing fine details.
Goal of this Article:
How to repair those tiny imperfections.
Description:
Pictures:
This is a brand new restoration tool to me. My friend Bob Anderson who is also a collector once worked in the Auto Body industry and he clued me in to this one. I've been using Bondo for quite some time and have been reasonably happy with it until the time comes where you need a very very fine graduation on something.. For instance, where a sticker meets the wood of a game. Bondo takes an incredible amount of work to really get smooth, primed and ready to accept paint and I was ok with it.. Until I tried Evercoat on Bob's recommendation. Evercoat is a Polyester super fine finish topcoat for bondo or just about anything else. The finish once sanded is amazing.
The Problem:

Ever applied white sideart and had it wrinkle on you? Had to fix some water damage on the bottom of a game that forced you to cut away some of the original white vinyl? Got screw holes through the vinyl? Scuffs? Scratches? This is the type of usually very detailed damage we are aiming to fix.
First thing I do is grab a very sharp razor blade and trim away the high spots. Sharp edges are just fine here.
Now, a nice smooth sanding with 220 grit paper or higher to level things out.. If the gouge or damage is deeper use your traditional Bondo or other body filler to bring it to the right level. At this point you should only have low spots, not high.
Evercoat is a polyester resin product. I is much much finer than bondo and actually is very shiny when you mix it.. Looks almost plastic. The hardener to Evercoat ratio is similar to Bondo. You only need this stuff in very very small amounts.
Once i've prepped my surface and mixed my Evercoat, I use the edge of a razor blade as the tool to lay down the filler material. This puts on a VERY thin layer that will harden fairly quickly. You can feel the difference in the type of product this is compared to Bondo in that it is much much creamier.
After the evercoat dries, i start with 220 grit sandpaper, then move to 400 and finally 600 to get it nice and smooth. I do ALL of this sanding by hand, never with a power sander. Unlike Bondo, in this case you are doing very fine detail work that a powertool will just make a mess of.
Here's the final finish! This is the result of 3 coats of white primer sanded in between each one and a final coat of Rust Oleum Satin White (My favorite :).. You truly cannot tell where the damage used to be!
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